Like a Berber tent in the Atlas Mountains of North Africa, Moun of Tunis is nestled snugly in the foothills of West Hollywood. Although it bills itself as a Tunisian-Moroccan restaurant, the cuisine it serves is common to the entire Maghreb, which includes Algeria as well.

And, indeed, the people next to us were Algerian-born Frenchmen – so-called Pieds Noirs, literally Black Feet, a reference to the leather shoes worn by European Colonials in that country prior to its independence from France in 1962. The other group in the room was a large Moroccan family.

If there is any lingering resentment over the region’s colonial past, it was not apparent, as everyone reclined on their cushions in the cozy tent-like space, ate, and talked in the mellow tones of North African French, lapsing freely into English and Arabic.

Hearing French is usually a good sign that you are in for a culinary treat, and Moun of Tunis did not disappoint. Beginning with olives and hummus, we worked our way – and our fingers – through eggplant salad, rosewater carrots, lentil soup, brik (a chicken and egg-filled puff pastry, covered with confectioners sugar), lamb, couscous, and, finally, almond cake and mint tea.

Although the waiter, with his loose-fitting traditional garb and goatee looked vaguely like a Barbary pirate, he could not have been more hospitable. In fact, service all around was excellent, and even the owner (who wore a suit) came over to ask how everything was.
And did I mention that there were belly dancers?

It’s true. Right here in Los Angeles, complete with jeweled skirts, multi-colored silk scarves, and finger cymbals. I confess that it felt a little strange to stuff money into a woman’s skirt in front of children (not to mention my fiancée), but the message that a woman does not have to be thin to be beautiful is surely worth conveying.

With a multi-course feast for thirty dollars and semi-private rooms decorated with Persian rugs, bas reliefs, and tapestries depicting scenes with turbaned sultans, snake charmers, elephants, and palm trees, the restaurant has a strong flavor of the Maghreb, where Berbers, Jews, Arabs, and Europeans traded spices and recipes over the centuries.

Moun of Tunis is certainly exotic, but with a homey touch. I highly recommend it.

Moun of Tunis is located at 7445 West Sunset Boulevard. It is open from 5:30 to 11:00, seven days a week. For reservations, call (323) 874-3333.