Among the many Chinese restaurants on the Westside, there is one that stands out, both for excellent service and great food: Hop Li Seafood Restaurant. But don't be fooled by the name: Hop Li has more than just fried shrimp and coconut prawns. In fact, there is a whole array of chicken, beef, and vegetable dishes in addition to fish, shrimp, and other fruits de la mer that goes well beyond the standard fare that one usually gets between a pot of hot tea and a plate of fortune cookies.

The mango chicken, chicken with double mushrooms, and Peking duck are all tasty, as are the various moo shoo dishes (vegetable, beef, chicken, and pork). The ingredients are fresh, the meat tender, and the sauces more complex and interesting than the overpowering, salty, and sometimes pungent flavors that are so ubiquitous at lesser places. The eggrolls, hot and sour soup (which, unfortunately, only comes in a large bowl serving four), and other standard offerings are also good, if undistinguished.

That said, the seafood dishes are what make Hop Li truly shine. The fish filet, with hot, savory, but surprisingly delicate and light garlic black bean sauce or breaded with a sweet and tangy orange sauce are personal favorites. It is rare that I will order two flounder dishes, especially at a Chinese restaurant, but this is the exception, with the combination of flavors and textures (flaky, crunchy, and juicy) playing off each other so well that I always leave wanting more. Throw in an order of hot braised string beans, crisp and garlicky, and you're in for a real treat. It is worth mentioning that all three dishes were the recommendation of the wait staff.

There are many other offerings ' almost too many to describe: Clams, mussels, scallops, abalone, and squid prepared in different ways (kung pao, stir fried, with black bean sauce, with ginger and green onion) or to order. There is also lobster, crab, and Chinese vegetables. They even have hot pot ' a kind of Chinese fondue, with an assortment of meats and seafood arranged around a pot of boiling water, to be skewered, cooked, and eaten around a large table. As with everything at Hop Li, it is all fresh, without the slightest hint of stale fishy taste or smell that can be so unappetizing.

It’s true that the ambiance is nothing special ' about what you'd expect for a mid-level Chinese restaurant ' but the food, especially the seafood, is so good that there is always a mix of people (a significant portion of whom seem to be Chinese) waiting to be seated.

If you like Chinese food, Hop Li should be on your radar: The service is quick, the staff helpful, the prices reasonable, and the food top notch.

Hop Li Seafood Restaurant is located at 10974 W. Pico Boulevard, with other locations in Chinatown, Arcadia, and West Los Angeles. It is open from 11:00 to 10:00, seven days a week. For reservations, call (310) 441-3708.